Embroidery hoops are indispensible tools for working embroidery. They come in a wide range of sizes, colors, styles and materials, and every stitcher has their own favorite brand.
Before starting the project, the embroidery fabric is placed in the hoop, pulling it taunt and tightening the outer hoop to hold the fabric into position (refer to the hoop tutorial for step-by-step photos). This taunt fabric base makes it easier to create well-formed stitches that are evenly spaced and uniform in size, as compared to holding the fabric in the hands without a hoop, which can cause the stitch tension to be too tight or too loose. Using a hoop also makes it easier to count the threads in evenweave fabric when worked a counted thread projects such as blackwork, drawn or pulled thread or cross stitch.
Materials used to make embroidery hoops include wood, plastic, PVC (Polyvinyl chloride), metal and bamboo. Shapes for hoops include round, oval and square (although square is difficult to find and is only available in PVC).
Your choice of size and shape depends entirely on the project and your preference - and there are a lot of possibilities. However, when selecting a hoop, remember that the fabric must completely fill the hoop in order to keep it tight. This means that for those using a larger hoop, the fabric may need to be cut larger, with more open space around all four sides, to fit the hoop.
Many stitchers choose hoops that are slightly larger than the area of the project they are stitching. This allows them to center the design area in the hoop and work the design without moving the hoop from one area of the fabric to another.
Others - myself included - prefer a smaller hoop, as it is easier to hold in the hands for longer periods of time, and if you travel or commute, fits nicely into a purse or tote. The drawback to using a smaller hoop is that must move the hoop as often as necessary to complete the design.
Regardless of whether you choose a larger hoop or a smaller one, hoops should always be removed from the fabric when ending your embroidery session for the day. Leaving a hoop on the fabric can cause permanent creases to form in some embroidery fabrics, or at the very least, creases that are very difficult to remove.
When browsing and buying hoops, you will notice that some of them are flat sections that fit flush, one inside the other, while other hoops have a "lip" or tongue and groove shaped edge on the inner hoop that the outer hoops fits tightly around. You'll also notice that some hoops tighten and loosen with a thumb screw, while others are tension or spring operated or have sections that snap together without tightening. Avoid those that snap together, as the fabric tends to slip in these, and they are better suited to quilting projects rather than embroidery.
Hoops that are tension or spring operated are made from a combination of metal and plastic and have a lip. These work well, but can be difficult for people with arthritis to use, as it can take a bit of hand strength to load, as the tabe need to be pulled together and then released to secure the fabric between the rings.
Wooden hoops, which can be made from pine, hardwood or bamboo do not have a lip. When using a lipless hoop, fabric tends to slip as you work, and the taut fabric base sags and must be re-stretched often. To avoid re-stretching, the inner hoop can be wrapped with one-inch wide strips of unbleached cotton fabric, or wrapped with acid-free masking tape to help hold the fabric taut.
Wood embroidery hoops should not be confused with quilting hoops, which are made from much wider strips of wood (1.5 to 2 inches) than embroidery hoops (1/2" or less).
Ubiquitous cheap wooden hoops should not be used at all, as these can splinter or break and the metal brackets holding the thumb screw tend to bend. Better quality wood or bamboo hoops are worth the price and will not fail you if wrapped properly. For finishing or display, however, the cheapies are fine for hoop framing or temporarily displaying a completed project.
Metal hoops, in solid metal or lined with cork, were once popular but have fallen out of favor. They can rust or discolor, leaving a permanent stain on the fabric (as I have found out the hard way). If you have these laying around, you're better off using them only for display or discarding them altogether.
The most popular choice in embroidery hoops - and by far the most versatile due to the vast array of sizes and styles - is the plastic hoop. Plastic hoops almost always have a lip, which helps hold the fabric tightly, and are available in sizes ranging from just a few inches to 8 inches or larger. The embroidery fabric is secured between the two rings using a thumb screw or wing nut.
Another hoop option is the oval, which are almost always made from plastic. These are handy to keep on hand when working borders and edgings, as using an oval hoop allows for more of the length of the area being worked to be displayed without a lot of excess hoop to hold onto.
When using an embroidery hoop, two hands are required - one to work the stitch and the other to hold the hoop. You can keep the hoop-holding hand free by using a lap, table or floor stand made to hold your particular brand of hoop, or a universal stand that will hold any type or size. The hoop is attached to the stands with either a clamp, or secured in place through the sides of the hoop using wing nuts or thumb screws (depending on the type and brand).
Another helpful alternative is a reversible, two-hoop stand featuring two different sizes of hoops with vertical supports like this one from DMC. To use, mount the fabric in one of the hoops - this will be the upper hoop. Place the double-hoop combo in your lap and place the stitching hand over the top hoop, and the receiving hand in the elevated space between the two hoops, passing the needle back and forth through the fabric. I have several of these stands and love the fact that there are two sizes available for use (usually five- and seven-inch combination or a seven- and nine-inch combination).
While using an embroidery hoop is helpful when working nearly any type of embroidery, there are cases when an embroidery hoop should not be used, as it just gets in the way or makes it almost impossible to work the embroidery stitches. This is particularly true with surface embroidery projects, as some of the stitches are best worked on loose fabric. Good examples of this are the stem stitch and the chain stitch. If you run into this situation as your work your project, remove the fabric from the hoop, work the stitch with the fabric held in the hands, and replace the fabric in the hoop when working the other types of embroidery stitches.
